For pi-Stomp Original 1.0.1 build instructions, go here
For pi-Stomp Original 1.0.2 build instructions, go here
For pi-Stomp Core 2.0.3 build instructions, go here
For pi-Stomp Core 2.0.4 with IQAudio Codec Zero card, go here
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All Set? LET'S BUILD!
Before you commence building, it's highly advisable to consider how you plan to mount your pi-Stomp. Specifically, you should decide whether you plan to mount top-mount the LCD above the enclosure face, or under-mount it. Your choice will affect Step #9 whether to install the LCD header or not.
Check out examples of top-mounting and under-mounting methods here
Under-mounting looks far more professional and better protects the LCD. But it requires being able to cut a rather sizable rectangular cutout where top-mount just requires a simple slot. Another disadvantage of under-mounting is that you cannot socket the LCD, it must be soldered to the pi-Stomp board because no socket exists short enough to allow the LCD face to sit below where the volume pot and encoder end up. One could avoid mounting the pot and encoder and flywire them to the board, or use a 9-pin ribbon cable to place the LCD away from the pi-Stomp board, but those are specialized builds not covered here.
To save you from the often frustrating soldering of surface mount components, we've presoldered the voltage regulator for you. You're welcome!
Pay close attention to which side the header should be inserted - the side with the silkscreened name. Unsoldering a misplaced header is not fun.
It's important for headers to sit tight and perpendicular to the board (except where noted otherwise). I use tape to keep it in place until a pin (or two) is soldered, then adjust as necessary before soldering the remaining pins
This header is optional but recommended if you might need access to extra GPIO pins for Outputs (LED's, etc.) or direct (not ADC or debounced) inputs.
This header can be installed on either side of the board. If you do mount it on top (side with the volume and encoder), angle the pins slightly upward (maybe 10 to 15 degrees) so that jumpers can be attached and clear the IC which will be installed South of it later.
The bottom side (side with header silkscreen and the red capacitors), is generally recommended and shown in this build. Angling the pins slightly upward just a few degrees can make it easier to attach jumpers.
Note how the black plastic ends up perpendicular to the board not flush to it.
Use tape to secure each while soldering. It can help with positioning if you attach a jumper as it will be when eventually connected.
This provides the interface for attaching, switches, MIDI and analog inputs.
To allow best access to these pins when the whole board sandwich is assembled, make sure the pins are not angled inward but either straight up or maybe just a few degrees outward (away from the board edge)
The sockets have a notch to indicate pin #1. Orient that to match the silkscreen notch.
S2 (the ADC socket) is recommended for most builds unless you plan to replace the ADC with your own hardware connected via SPI (see the Customization guide)
Make sure these are inserted from the correct board side. Unsoldering them is a bitch.
Vol pot P1 has a “keying” tab (unless it's already been removed) which, although is less than 1mm tall, will prevent the pot from sitting flush to inside face of the enclosure when mounted. It's important for it to sit flush. So you can either decide to drill a small divot on the inside of the enclosure (doesn't need to completely pierce the face), break it off with needle nose pliers, or file the tab down. If you do file it, it's good to cover the shaft and threaded shank in tape to protect them from damage or metal dust.
The last part is often the trickiest. The encoder Enc has very short pins, but for it to sit tight against the enclosure face, it (plus the included nylon washer) needs to sit at roughly the same level as the Vol pot. It should rest on its side tabs at the appropriate level, however, it can rock and end up not perpendicular to the board. So…
The pins of the IC's usually need to be bent inward just a millimeter or two before inserting. Lightly squeeze all pins between thumb and first finger.
All IC's are polarized. Make sure the notch/dimple (indicating pin #1) ends up on the same end as the silkscreen (and sockets if you installed them right). Worse case, match the photos below.
Two jumpers attach the Audio Board to the pi-Stomp PCB.
The Pimoroni Hat Hacker should have included 6 10mm metal hex spacers and 12 metal screws. We'll use those along with the nylon spacers for assembling. We'll be using all the screws so try not to loose them.
Stack the Audio Board onto the center 40-pin header of the Hat Hacker. Attach with two screws from below. Note that since the audio board has a short header, there will be a slight gap (~2mm) between male and female headers.
Depending on how you plan to enclose the pi-Stomp, you need to decide whether to Top-mount the LCD and install a header (HLCD) for it, OR Under-mount the LCD and solder it directly to the board. Top-mount with a header may be the most versatile, but Under-mount will generally be the most professional looking. See Enclosure Considerations for examples.
It's not quite as aesthetically pleasing, but it makes machining of the enclosure easier (only a narrow slot for the pins is required) and it allows for unplugging/swapping the LCD.
The provided HLCD 1×9 female header should result in the display sitting on top of the enclosure top panel surface if your enclosure face is 3mm or less. You should measure the ending height of the LCD with the header to assure it will extend the right amount thru the slot in your enclosure. If it needs to extend further, you could raise the header slightly from flush before soldering.
As with the other headers installed in step #4, secure in place with tape
Then solder the 9 pins from the opposite side.
Now stack the pi-Stomp board onto the main Hat Hacker 40-pin header. Seat completely and attach with two screws.
Connect the 3-pin Audio Board Input cable to the pi-Stomp board. Each pin is labeled on each board with “L” for left, “G” for ground, and “R” for Right. Make sure you connect like pins.
Similarly connect the 2-pin Output cable. It only has “L” and “R”, no ground.
Quite the sandwich, eh? Your pi-Stomp Core is complete!
If you want the LCD to be mounted underneath the top panel then you won't be able to use a plug-able header because that would place the top surface of the LCD above the pot and encoder. Your enclosure would need a rectangular cutout which is fairly simple with CNC or milling machine. It's not as easy without those tools, but possible with some patience by drilling lots of holes and filing to your rectangular outline. For this method, you'll be soldering the LCD directly to the board.
Three spacers HW21 - HW23 (6mm tall) can be glued between the pi-Stomp board and the LCD to keep it parallel and at the right height - just below the enclosure face when the volume pot and encoder are mounted.
You'll want to place the spacers so they're flush against the boards, between solder pads. Requires a bit of Test fitting the LCD.
If the final height of the pot and encoder ends up higher than the spacer, you might need to file them down slightly.
A light layer of hot glue affixes the spacers and breaks fairly easy if you get it wrong.
Because the LCD, once soldered, will obscure the audio In header, you'll need to connect the 3 wire jumper from the Audio board, before attaching the LCD, Each pin is labeled on each board with “L” for left, “G” for ground, and “R” for Right. Make sure you connect like pins.
A spot of hot glue can keep the jumper from separating from the header
Now insert the LCD pins, securing with a bit a glue on 1 or all 3 spacers
Flip everything, and solder from the other side
Now you can finally plug the pi-Stomp board 40-pin female header into the Hat Hacker male header. Secure from the LCD side with two screws.
Attach the output jumper from the audio board.
Your pi-Stomp Core is now complete!