pi-stomp_core_build_instructions

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pi-stomp_core_build_instructions [2021/09/11 07:20] – [If you choose to Under-mount the LCD...] adminpi-stomp_core_build_instructions [2024/01/26 05:45] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1
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 For pi-Stomp Core 2.0.3 build instructions, go [[full_build_instructions_2.0.3|here]] For pi-Stomp Core 2.0.3 build instructions, go [[full_build_instructions_2.0.3|here]]
 +
 +For pi-Stomp Core 2.0.4 with AudioInjector card, go [[pi-stomp_core_build_instructions_ai|here]] 
  
 [[bill_of_materials|Bill of Materials for board version 2.0.4]] [[bill_of_materials|Bill of Materials for board version 2.0.4]]
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 Under-mounting looks far more professional and better protects the LCD.  But it requires being able to cut a rather sizable rectangular cutout where top-mount just requires a simple slot.  Another disadvantage of under-mounting is that you cannot socket the LCD, it must be soldered to the pi-Stomp board because no socket exists short enough to allow the LCD face to sit below where the volume pot and encoder end up.  One could avoid mounting the pot and encoder and flywire them to the board, or use a 9-pin ribbon cable to place the LCD away from the pi-Stomp board, but those are specialized builds not covered here. Under-mounting looks far more professional and better protects the LCD.  But it requires being able to cut a rather sizable rectangular cutout where top-mount just requires a simple slot.  Another disadvantage of under-mounting is that you cannot socket the LCD, it must be soldered to the pi-Stomp board because no socket exists short enough to allow the LCD face to sit below where the volume pot and encoder end up.  One could avoid mounting the pot and encoder and flywire them to the board, or use a 9-pin ribbon cable to place the LCD away from the pi-Stomp board, but those are specialized builds not covered here.
  
-Here are the parts needed for assembling the pi-Stomp Core PCB+Below are the parts needed for assembling the pi-Stomp Core PCB.  If you seem to be missing some, make sure you look in the Rasberry Pi box.  
 {{ :img_7188.jpeg?direct&600 |}} {{ :img_7188.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
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 {{ :img_7192.jpeg?direct&600 |}} {{ :img_7192.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
-{{ :img_7193.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+{{ :img_7195.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
  
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   * Solder all pads, clip leads   * Solder all pads, clip leads
 ===== Step #3: Install Fuse and Transistors ===== ===== Step #3: Install Fuse and Transistors =====
-  * Trim the **Fuse** (looks like a ceramic capacitor) leads just above the bend:+  * Insert **Fuse** (looks like a ceramic capacitor).  Orientation doesn't matter.  If the lead spacing doesn't match the circuit board holes, you may need to trim leads just above the bend
 {{ :IMG_7043.jpeg?direct&600 |}} {{ :IMG_7043.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
-  * Insert (orientation doesn't matter). Solder, Trim.+  * Solder, Trim.
  
   * Insert both transistors (**Q1** & **Q2**) **with the flattened side matching the silkscreen**. Splay the leads, solder, trim.  Too much heat can damage a transistor, don't linger with the iron.  If you can't solder in less than 3 seconds or so, attach a heat sink tweezer to the transistor side of the lead.   * Insert both transistors (**Q1** & **Q2**) **with the flattened side matching the silkscreen**. Splay the leads, solder, trim.  Too much heat can damage a transistor, don't linger with the iron.  If you can't solder in less than 3 seconds or so, attach a heat sink tweezer to the transistor side of the lead.
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-==== HExt (2x26 Male) ====+==== HExt (1x26 Male) ====
 This provides the interface for attaching, switches, MIDI and analog inputs. This provides the interface for attaching, switches, MIDI and analog inputs.
  
 {{ :IMG_7213.jpeg?direct&600 |}} {{ :IMG_7213.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-To allow best access to these pins when the whole board sandwich is assembled, make sure the pins are not angled inward but either straight up or maybe just a view degrees outward (away from the board edge)+To allow best access to these pins when the whole board sandwich is assembled, make sure the pins are not angled inward but either straight up or maybe just a few degrees outward (away from the board edge)
  
 {{ :IMG_7214.jpeg?direct&600 |}} {{ :IMG_7214.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
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 ===== Step #7: Install Pot and Encoder ===== ===== Step #7: Install Pot and Encoder =====
 +**Vol** pot **P1** has a "keying" tab (unless it's already been removed) which, although is less than 1mm tall, will prevent the pot from sitting flush to inside face of the enclosure when mounted.  It's important for it to sit flush. You can either file the tab down, or break it off with needle nose pliers.  Because filing makes a mess, I prefer to break it off.
 +{{ :img_8099.jpeg?direct&600 |}}  
 +
   * Insert **Vol** pot **P1**   * Insert **Vol** pot **P1**
   * To increase mechanical stability, I recommend bending over the side tabs with a **blunt** plastic tool like the butt end of a sharpie   * To increase mechanical stability, I recommend bending over the side tabs with a **blunt** plastic tool like the butt end of a sharpie
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   * Solder 6 pins plus the side tabs   * Solder 6 pins plus the side tabs
  
-{{:warning24.png?nolink|}} The last part is often the trickiest. The encoder **Enc** has very short pins, but for it to sit tight against the enclosure face, it needs to sit at roughly the same level as the Vol pot.  It should rest on its side tabs at the appropriate level, however, it can rock and end up not perpendicular to the board.  So...+{{:warning24.png?nolink|}} The last part is often the trickiest. The encoder **Enc** has very short pins, but for it to sit tight against the enclosure face, it (plus the included nylon washer) needs to sit at roughly the same level as the Vol pot.  It should rest on its side tabs at the appropriate level, however, it can rock and end up not perpendicular to the board.  So...
   * Secure with tape on each side to make it perpendicular   * Secure with tape on each side to make it perpendicular
  
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 {{ :IMG_7227.jpeg?direct&600 |}} {{ :IMG_7227.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-**Congratulations, the board is complete!**+The board now looks like this
 {{ :IMG_7228.jpeg?direct&600 |}} {{ :IMG_7228.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
      
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-===== Step #9: Wire the Audio Board ===== 
-Two jumpers attach the **Audio Board** to the pi-Stomp PCB. 
  
-  * First cut a 3-wire jumper in half (color doesn't matter) +===== Step #9: Attach the LCD ===== 
-{{ :IMG_7077.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+{{:question-icon.jpg?nolink|}} Depending on how you plan to enclose the pi-Stomp, you need to decide whether to **Top-mount** the LCD and install a header (HLCD) for it, OR **Under-mount** the LCD and solder it directly to the board.  Under-mount will generally be the most professional looking.  See [[enclosure_considerations|Enclosure Considerations]] for examples.
  
-  * Separate the individual wires (maybe 1 to 2 cm) +[[lcd_top_mount_instructions|Top-Mount instructions using a header]]
-  * Strip about 3mm from each wire and twist the copper strands +
-  * Tin each end (heat and add just a spot of solder) +
-  * Can be tricky holding the board, wire, iron and solder.  A "third hand" helps,  Also a pair of pliers with a rubber-band can hold the board.  Worst case, ask a friend.+
  
-{{ :IMG_7079.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+All others, and especially if you purchased an enclosure from Treefallsound, should use Under-mount shown below
  
-  * Insert the 3 wire ends into the **top** (component) side of the board labeled **"Input"** and solder. 
  
-  * Cut the other half to around 7cm (2.75").   
  
-{{ :IMG_7080.jpeg?direct&600 |}} 
  
-  * Split off two of the 3 wires +==== Under-mount the LCD...==== 
-  * Strip and tin the two wires as before +A header for easy removal of the LCD (as used in Top-mounting) isn't possible for under-mounting.  It would result in a height inconsistent with the encoder and volume control.  So for this method, you'll be soldering the LCD directly to the board.  
-  * Insert the 2 wire ends into the **top** side of the board labeled **"Output"** but just the two outside pads, not "Gnd" +
-{{ :IMG_7081.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+
  
-  * Hold in place and Solder +Three spacers **HW23 - HW25** (5.5mm tall) can be glued between the pi-Stomp board and the LCD to keep it parallel and at the right height - just below the enclosure face when the volume pot and encoder are mounted. 
-{{ :IMG_7082.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+{{ :img_8103.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
 +You'll want to place the spacers so they're flush against the boards, between solder pads. Could require a bit of test fitting, but if you place them as shown, it should work fine.
  
 +A light layer of hot glue affixes the spacers and breaks fairly easy if you get it wrong.
  
 +{{ :img_8102.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-===== Step #10: Prepare Boards for Assembly ===== +{{:warning24.png?nolink|}} Because the LCD, once soldered, will obscure the audio input header, you'll need to connect **W2** (4" 3-wire jumper which will eventually connect to the Audio board) **before** attaching the LCD,  Each pin is labeled on the board with “L” for left, “G” for ground, and “R” for Right. Once you connect the jumper, make note of which color connected to each pin.  In the build shown: L=Yellow, G=Green, R=Blue.
-The Pimoroni **Hat Hacker** should have included 6 10mm metal hex spacers and 12 metal screws.  We'll use those along with the nylon spacers for assembling.  We'll be using all the screws so try not to loose them.+
  
-==== Prepare the Audio Board ==== +{{ :img_8104.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
-Attach two 10mm metal spacers using two screws to the **Audio Board** +
-{{ :img_7085.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+
  
-They should attach on the edge opposite of the 40-pin header +A spot of hot glue can keep the jumper from separating from the header
-{{ :img_7087.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+
  
-==== Prepare the Hat Hacker ==== +{{ :img_8105.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
-Attach two 12mm nylon spacers using two screws to the **Hat Hacker** +
-{{ :img_7096.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+
  
-They should attach on either side of the edge 40-pin header (male pin side) +Now insert the 9 LCD pins, securing the LCD with a bit a glue on at least 1 spacer.  If you glue all 3, you'll have to work fast before the glue dries.
-{{ :img_7119.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+
  
-==== Prepare the Raspberry Pi ==== +{{ :img_8106.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
-Attach two 8mm nylon spacers plus 1mm nylon washers to the Pi using two screws. +
-{{ :img_7120.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+
  
-They should attach on the edge opposite of the 40-pin header. The stack results in a 9mm spacer. +Flip everything, and solder from the other side
-{{ :img_7122.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+
  
-===== Step #11: Stack the Pi, Hat Hacker and Audio Board =====+{{ :img_8107.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-Stack the **Hat Hacker** onto the **Raspberry Pi**.  Seat completely and attach with two screws. +**The pi-Stomp board is now complete.**
-{{ :img_7108.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+
  
-Stack the **Audio Board** onto the center 40-pin header of the **Hat Hacker**.  Attach with two screws from below.  Note that since the audio board has a short header, there will be a slight gap (~2mm) between male and female headers.+===== Step #10: Prepare Boards for Assembly ===== 
 +The kit comes with 4 sets of standoffs (spacers) and screws. Each are a different height so it's important to use the correct ones.
  
-{{ :img_7115.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+==== Add spacers to the pi-Stomp Board ==== 
 +To either side of the 40-pin header, we'll add a 12mm spacer plus 1mm washer for a total height of 13mm   
 +{{ :img_8109.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
 +Insert a screw from the "top" side, then from the "bottom" add a 1mm washer, then the 12mm spacer, then tighten.
 +{{ :img_8110.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-===== Step #12: Final Assembly: pi-Stomp board and LCD ===== 
-{{:question-icon.jpg?nolink|}} Depending on how you plan to enclose the pi-Stomp, you need to decide whether to **Top-mount** the LCD and install a header (HLCD) for it, OR **Under-mount** the LCD and solder it directly to the board.  See [[enclosure_considerations|Enclosure Considerations]] for examples. 
  
-==== If you choose to Top-mount the LCD... ==== +==== Prepare the Audio Board ==== 
-It's not quite as aesthetically pleasing, but it makes machining of the enclosure easier (only a narrow slot for the pins is required) and it allows for unplugging/swapping the LCD.+Attach two silver 11mm metal spacers using two screws to the **Audio Board** 
 +{{ :img_8092.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-The provided **HLCD** 1x9 female header should result in the display sitting on top of the enclosure top panel surface if your enclosure face is 3mm or less.  You should measure the ending height of the LCD with the header to assure it will extend the right amount thru the slot in your enclosure.  If it needs to extend further, you could raise the header slightly from flush before soldering.+They should attach to the "bottom" side on the edge opposite of the 40-pin header 
 +{{ :img_8093.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-As with the other headers installed in step #4, secure in place with tape+==== Prepare the Hat Hacker ==== 
 +Attach two 8mm nylon spacers, plus 1mm thick washers (9mm height total) using two screws to the **Hat Hacker** 
 +{{ :img_8096.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-{{ :IMG_7201.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+They should protrude from the "bottom" side. Insert the screw from the "top" side, through the elongated hole (end nearest the 40-pin header) as shown, then add the washer and finally the 8mm spacer. 
 +{{ :img_8097.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-Then solder the 9 pins from the opposite side.+==== Prepare the Raspberry Pi ==== 
 +Attach heatsink to Broadcom chip on the "top" side.  Peal just the blue layer of the tape, then stick it on the chip and press firmly. 
 +{{ :img_8090.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-Now stack the pi-Stomp board onto the main **Hat Hacker** 40-pin header.  Seat completely and attach with two screws.+Attach a second heatsink to the CPU on the "bottom" side. 
 +{{ :img_8091.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-{{ :img_7116.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+===== Step #11: Stack the Sandwich =====
  
-Connect the 3-pin Audio Board **Input** cable to the pi-Stomp board.  Each pin is labeled on each board with "L" for left, "G" for ground, and "R" for Right.  Make sure you connect like pins.+First, the **Audio Card** onto the **Hat Hacker**
  
-Similarly connect the 2-pin **Output** cable.  It only has "L" and "R", no ground.+Leave the sticker on the board.  That along with some fingernail polish under the sticker are in place to prevent possible shorting to the volume pot on the pi-Stomp circuit board. 
 +{{ :img_8115.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-Plug the **LCD** into the pi-Stomp board 9-pin header. +Seat the 40-pin header completely and attach with two screws 
-{{ :img_7117.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+{{ :img_8116.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-Quite the sandwich, eh?  Your pi-Stomp Core is complete!+Next, the **Hat Hacker** onto the back of the pi-Stomp board 
 +{{ :img_8117.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-====If you choose to Under-mount the LCD...==== +Seat the 40-pin header and attach with two screws (note that there will be a slight ~1mm gap between the headers) 
-If you want the LCD to be mounted underneath the top panel then you won't be able to use a plug-able header because that would place the top surface of the LCD above the pot and encoder.  Your enclosure would need a rectangular cutout which is fairly simple with CNC or milling machine.  It's not as easy without those tools, but possible with some patience by drilling lots of holes and filing to your rectangular outline.  For this method, you'll be soldering the LCD directly to the board.   +{{ :img_8118.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
- +
-Three spacers **HW21 - HW23** (6mm tall) can be glued between the pi-Stomp board and the LCD to keep it parallel and at the right height - just below the enclosure face when the volume pot and encoder are mounted. +
-{{ :img_7259.jpeg?direct&600 |}} +
- +
-You'll want to place the spacers so they're flush against the boards, between solder pads.  Requires a bit of Test fitting the LCD.  +
- +
-If the final height of the pot and encoder ends up higher than the spacer, you might need to file them down slightly. +
- +
-{{ :img_7258.jpeg?direct&600 |}} +
- +
-A light layer of hot glue affixes the spacers and breaks fairly easy if you get it wrong. +
- +
-{{ :img_7256.jpeg?direct&600 |}} +
- +
-Because the LCD, once soldered, will obscure the audio In header, you'll need to connect the 3 wire jumper from the Audio board, before attaching the LCD,  Each pin is labeled on each board with “L” for left, “G” for ground, and “R” for Right. Make sure you connect like pins.  +
- +
-{{ :img_7260.jpeg?direct&600 |}} +
- +
-A spot of hot glue can keep the jumper from separating from the header +
- +
-{{ :img_7261.jpeg?direct&600 |}} +
- +
-Now insert the LCD pins, securing with a bit a glue on 1 or all 3 spacers +
- +
-{{ :img_7262.jpeg?direct&600 |}} +
- +
-Flip everything, and solder from the other side+
  
-{{ :img_7263.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+Flip the board and attach the audio jumpers. The input pins shown in green should match the "L" "G" and "R" wire colors you noted when connecting the other end.  The output pins shown in pink should match the "L" and "R" on the pi-Stomp board.  Note there is no ground for the output connection. 
 +{{ :img_8128.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-Now you can finally plug the pi-Stomp board 40-pin into the Hat Hacker. Secure with two screws.  Then attach the output jumper from the audio board.+Next, the Raspberry Pi board will be attached to the Hat Hacker 
 +{{ :img_8123.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-{{ :img_7265.jpeg?direct&600 |}}+Seat the 40-pin header and attach with two screws 
 +{{ :img_8124.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
-You're pi-Stomp Core is now complete!+Your pi-Stomp Core is now complete!
  
 +Other views of the final stack:
 +{{ :img_8125.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
 +{{ :img_8126.jpeg?direct&600 |}}
  
 +For installing into an enclosure see this example:
 +[[1590JExampleBuild|Example build into a 1590J enclosure]]
  
  
  • pi-stomp_core_build_instructions.1631344815.txt.gz
  • Last modified: 2024/01/26 05:45
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