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pi-stomp_core_build_instructions [2021/09/11 07:20] – [If you choose to Under-mount the LCD...] admin | pi-stomp_core_build_instructions [2024/01/26 05:45] (current) – external edit 127.0.0.1 | ||
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For pi-Stomp Core 2.0.3 build instructions, | For pi-Stomp Core 2.0.3 build instructions, | ||
+ | |||
+ | For pi-Stomp Core 2.0.4 with AudioInjector card, go [[pi-stomp_core_build_instructions_ai|here]] | ||
[[bill_of_materials|Bill of Materials for board version 2.0.4]] | [[bill_of_materials|Bill of Materials for board version 2.0.4]] | ||
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Under-mounting looks far more professional and better protects the LCD. But it requires being able to cut a rather sizable rectangular cutout where top-mount just requires a simple slot. Another disadvantage of under-mounting is that you cannot socket the LCD, it must be soldered to the pi-Stomp board because no socket exists short enough to allow the LCD face to sit below where the volume pot and encoder end up. One could avoid mounting the pot and encoder and flywire them to the board, or use a 9-pin ribbon cable to place the LCD away from the pi-Stomp board, but those are specialized builds not covered here. | Under-mounting looks far more professional and better protects the LCD. But it requires being able to cut a rather sizable rectangular cutout where top-mount just requires a simple slot. Another disadvantage of under-mounting is that you cannot socket the LCD, it must be soldered to the pi-Stomp board because no socket exists short enough to allow the LCD face to sit below where the volume pot and encoder end up. One could avoid mounting the pot and encoder and flywire them to the board, or use a 9-pin ribbon cable to place the LCD away from the pi-Stomp board, but those are specialized builds not covered here. | ||
- | Here are the parts needed for assembling the pi-Stomp Core PCB | + | Below are the parts needed for assembling the pi-Stomp Core PCB. If you seem to be missing some, make sure you look in the Rasberry Pi box. |
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{{ : | {{ : | ||
- | {{ :img_7193.jpeg? | + | {{ :img_7195.jpeg? |
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* Solder all pads, clip leads | * Solder all pads, clip leads | ||
===== Step #3: Install Fuse and Transistors ===== | ===== Step #3: Install Fuse and Transistors ===== | ||
- | * Trim the **Fuse** (looks like a ceramic capacitor) leads just above the bend: | + | * Insert |
{{ : | {{ : | ||
- | * Insert (orientation doesn' | + | * Solder, Trim. |
* Insert both transistors (**Q1** & **Q2**) **with the flattened side matching the silkscreen**. Splay the leads, solder, trim. Too much heat can damage a transistor, don't linger with the iron. If you can't solder in less than 3 seconds or so, attach a heat sink tweezer to the transistor side of the lead. | * Insert both transistors (**Q1** & **Q2**) **with the flattened side matching the silkscreen**. Splay the leads, solder, trim. Too much heat can damage a transistor, don't linger with the iron. If you can't solder in less than 3 seconds or so, attach a heat sink tweezer to the transistor side of the lead. | ||
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- | ==== HExt (2x26 Male) ==== | + | ==== HExt (1x26 Male) ==== |
This provides the interface for attaching, switches, MIDI and analog inputs. | This provides the interface for attaching, switches, MIDI and analog inputs. | ||
{{ : | {{ : | ||
- | To allow best access to these pins when the whole board sandwich is assembled, make sure the pins are not angled inward but either straight up or maybe just a view degrees outward (away from the board edge) | + | To allow best access to these pins when the whole board sandwich is assembled, make sure the pins are not angled inward but either straight up or maybe just a few degrees outward (away from the board edge) |
{{ : | {{ : | ||
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===== Step #7: Install Pot and Encoder ===== | ===== Step #7: Install Pot and Encoder ===== | ||
+ | **Vol** pot **P1** has a " | ||
+ | {{ : | ||
+ | |||
* Insert **Vol** pot **P1** | * Insert **Vol** pot **P1** | ||
* To increase mechanical stability, I recommend bending over the side tabs with a **blunt** plastic tool like the butt end of a sharpie | * To increase mechanical stability, I recommend bending over the side tabs with a **blunt** plastic tool like the butt end of a sharpie | ||
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* Solder 6 pins plus the side tabs | * Solder 6 pins plus the side tabs | ||
- | {{: | + | {{: |
* Secure with tape on each side to make it perpendicular | * Secure with tape on each side to make it perpendicular | ||
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{{ : | {{ : | ||
- | **Congratulations, | + | The board now looks like this |
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| | ||
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- | ===== Step #9: Wire the Audio Board ===== | ||
- | Two jumpers attach the **Audio Board** to the pi-Stomp PCB. | ||
- | * First cut a 3-wire jumper in half (color doesn' | + | ===== Step #9: Attach the LCD ===== |
- | {{ :IMG_7077.jpeg?direct& | + | {{:question-icon.jpg?nolink|}} Depending on how you plan to enclose the pi-Stomp, you need to decide whether to **Top-mount** the LCD and install a header (HLCD) for it, OR **Under-mount** the LCD and solder it directly to the board. |
- | * Separate the individual wires (maybe 1 to 2 cm) | + | [[lcd_top_mount_instructions|Top-Mount instructions using a header]] |
- | * Strip about 3mm from each wire and twist the copper strands | + | |
- | * Tin each end (heat and add just a spot of solder) | + | |
- | * Can be tricky holding the board, wire, iron and solder. | + | |
- | {{ : | + | All others, and especially if you purchased an enclosure from Treefallsound, |
- | * Insert the 3 wire ends into the **top** (component) side of the board labeled **" | ||
- | * Cut the other half to around 7cm (2.75" | ||
- | {{ : | ||
- | * Split off two of the 3 wires | + | ==== Under-mount |
- | * Strip and tin the two wires as before | + | A header for easy removal of the LCD (as used in Top-mounting) isn't possible for under-mounting. |
- | * Insert | + | |
- | {{ :IMG_7081.jpeg? | + | |
- | | + | Three spacers |
- | {{ :IMG_7082.jpeg? | + | {{ :img_8103.jpeg? |
+ | You'll want to place the spacers so they' | ||
+ | A light layer of hot glue affixes the spacers and breaks fairly easy if you get it wrong. | ||
+ | {{ : | ||
- | ===== Step #10: Prepare Boards for Assembly ===== | + | {{:warning24.png? |
- | The Pimoroni | + | |
- | ==== Prepare the Audio Board ==== | + | {{ :img_8104.jpeg? |
- | Attach two 10mm metal spacers using two screws to the **Audio Board** | + | |
- | {{ :img_7085.jpeg? | + | |
- | They should attach on the edge opposite | + | A spot of hot glue can keep the jumper from separating from the header |
- | {{ : | + | |
- | ==== Prepare the Hat Hacker ==== | + | {{ :img_8105.jpeg? |
- | Attach two 12mm nylon spacers using two screws to the **Hat Hacker** | + | |
- | {{ :img_7096.jpeg? | + | |
- | They should attach | + | Now insert the 9 LCD pins, securing the LCD with a bit a glue on at least 1 spacer. |
- | {{ :img_7119.jpeg? | + | |
- | ==== Prepare the Raspberry Pi ==== | + | {{ :img_8106.jpeg? |
- | Attach two 8mm nylon spacers plus 1mm nylon washers to the Pi using two screws. | + | |
- | {{ :img_7120.jpeg? | + | |
- | They should attach on the edge opposite of the 40-pin header. The stack results in a 9mm spacer. | + | Flip everything, and solder from the other side |
- | {{ : | + | |
- | ===== Step #11: Stack the Pi, Hat Hacker and Audio Board ===== | + | {{ :img_8107.jpeg? |
- | Stack the **Hat Hacker** onto the **Raspberry Pi**. Seat completely and attach with two screws. | + | **The pi-Stomp board is now complete.** |
- | {{ : | + | |
- | Stack the **Audio Board** onto the center 40-pin header | + | ===== Step #10: Prepare Boards for Assembly ===== |
+ | The kit comes with 4 sets of standoffs (spacers) and screws. | ||
- | {{ :img_7115.jpeg? | + | ==== Add spacers to the pi-Stomp Board ==== |
+ | To either side of the 40-pin header, we'll add a 12mm spacer plus 1mm washer for a total height of 13mm | ||
+ | {{ :img_8109.jpeg? | ||
+ | Insert a screw from the " | ||
+ | {{ : | ||
- | ===== Step #12: Final Assembly: pi-Stomp board and LCD ===== | ||
- | {{: | ||
- | ==== If you choose to Top-mount | + | ==== Prepare |
- | It's not quite as aesthetically pleasing, but it makes machining of the enclosure easier (only a narrow slot for the pins is required) and it allows for unplugging/ | + | Attach two silver 11mm metal spacers using two screws to the **Audio Board** |
+ | {{ :img_8092.jpeg? | ||
- | The provided **HLCD** 1x9 female header | + | They should |
+ | {{ :img_8093.jpeg? | ||
- | As with the other headers installed in step #4, secure in place with tape | + | ==== Prepare |
+ | Attach two 8mm nylon spacers, plus 1mm thick washers (9mm height total) using two screws to the **Hat Hacker** | ||
+ | {{ : | ||
- | {{ :IMG_7201.jpeg? | + | They should protrude from the " |
+ | {{ :img_8097.jpeg? | ||
- | Then solder | + | ==== Prepare |
+ | Attach heatsink to Broadcom chip on the " | ||
+ | {{ : | ||
- | Now stack the pi-Stomp board onto the main **Hat Hacker** 40-pin header. Seat completely and attach with two screws. | + | Attach a second heatsink to the CPU on the " |
+ | {{ :img_8091.jpeg? | ||
- | {{ :img_7116.jpeg? | + | ===== Step #11: Stack the Sandwich ===== |
- | Connect | + | First, |
- | Similarly connect | + | Leave the sticker on the board. |
+ | {{ :img_8115.jpeg? | ||
- | Plug the **LCD** into the pi-Stomp board 9-pin header. | + | Seat the 40-pin header |
- | {{ :img_7117.jpeg? | + | {{ :img_8116.jpeg? |
- | Quite the sandwich, eh? Your pi-Stomp | + | Next, the **Hat Hacker** onto the back of the pi-Stomp |
+ | {{ : | ||
- | ====If you choose to Under-mount | + | Seat the 40-pin header and attach |
- | If you want the LCD to be mounted underneath the top panel then you won't be able to use a plug-able header | + | {{ :img_8118.jpeg? |
- | + | ||
- | Three spacers **HW21 - HW23** | + | |
- | {{ :img_7259.jpeg? | + | |
- | + | ||
- | You'll want to place the spacers so they' | + | |
- | + | ||
- | If the final height of the pot and encoder ends up higher than the spacer, you might need to file them down slightly. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | {{ : | + | |
- | + | ||
- | A light layer of hot glue affixes the spacers and breaks fairly easy if you get it wrong. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | {{ : | + | |
- | + | ||
- | Because the LCD, once soldered, will obscure the audio In header, you'll need to connect the 3 wire jumper from the Audio board, before attaching the LCD, Each pin is labeled on each board with “L” for left, “G” for ground, and “R” for Right. Make sure you connect like pins. | + | |
- | + | ||
- | {{ : | + | |
- | + | ||
- | A spot of hot glue can keep the jumper from separating from the header | + | |
- | + | ||
- | {{ : | + | |
- | + | ||
- | Now insert the LCD pins, securing with a bit a glue on 1 or all 3 spacers | + | |
- | + | ||
- | {{ : | + | |
- | + | ||
- | Flip everything, and solder from the other side | + | |
- | {{ :img_7263.jpeg? | + | Flip the board and attach the audio jumpers. The input pins shown in green should match the " |
+ | {{ :img_8128.jpeg? | ||
- | Now you can finally plug the pi-Stomp | + | Next, the Raspberry Pi board will be attached to the Hat Hacker |
+ | {{ :img_8123.jpeg? | ||
- | {{ :img_7265.jpeg? | + | Seat the 40-pin header and attach with two screws |
+ | {{ :img_8124.jpeg? | ||
- | You' | + | Your pi-Stomp Core is now complete! |
+ | Other views of the final stack: | ||
+ | {{ : | ||
+ | {{ : | ||
+ | For installing into an enclosure see this example: | ||
+ | [[1590JExampleBuild|Example build into a 1590J enclosure]] | ||