For pi-Stomp Original 1.0.1 build instructions, go here
For pi-Stomp Original 1.0.2 build instructions, go here
For pi-Stomp Core 2.0.3 build instructions, go here
For pi-Stomp Core 2.0.4 with AudioInjector card, go here
Bill of Materials for board version 2.0.4
Back to the Main pi-Stomp Core page
All Set? LET'S BUILD!
Before you commence building, it's highly advisable to consider how you plan to mount your pi-Stomp. Specifically, you should decide whether you plan to mount top-mount the LCD above the enclosure face, or under-mount it. Your choice will affect Step #9 whether to install the LCD header or not.
Check out examples of top-mounting and under-mounting methods here
Under-mounting looks far more professional and better protects the LCD. But it requires being able to cut a rather sizable rectangular cutout where top-mount just requires a simple slot. Another disadvantage of under-mounting is that you cannot socket the LCD, it must be soldered to the pi-Stomp board because no socket exists short enough to allow the LCD face to sit below where the volume pot and encoder end up. One could avoid mounting the pot and encoder and flywire them to the board, or use a 9-pin ribbon cable to place the LCD away from the pi-Stomp board, but those are specialized builds not covered here.
Below are the parts needed for assembling the pi-Stomp Core PCB. If you seem to be missing some, make sure you look in the Rasberry Pi box.
To save you from the often frustrating soldering of surface mount components, we've presoldered the voltage regulator for you. You're welcome!
Pay close attention to which side the header should be inserted - the side with the silkscreened name. Unsoldering a misplaced header is not fun.
It's important for headers to sit tight and perpendicular to the board (except where noted otherwise). I use tape to keep it in place until a pin (or two) is soldered, then adjust as necessary before soldering the remaining pins
This header is optional but recommended if you might need access to extra GPIO pins for Outputs (LED's, etc.) or direct (not ADC or debounced) inputs.
This header can be installed on either side of the board. If you do mount it on top (side with the volume and encoder), angle the pins slightly upward (maybe 10 to 15 degrees) so that jumpers can be attached and clear the IC which will be installed South of it later.
The bottom side (side with header silkscreen and the red capacitors), is generally recommended and shown in this build. Angling the pins slightly upward just a few degrees can make it easier to attach jumpers.
These are the headers for the output and input jumpers. When complete they should look like this:
Note how the black plastic ends up perpendicular to the board not flush to it.
Use tape to secure each while soldering. It can help with positioning if you attach a jumper as it will be when eventually connected.
HOut header:
HIn header:
This provides the interface for attaching, switches, MIDI and analog inputs.
To allow best access to these pins when the whole board sandwich is assembled, make sure the pins are not angled inward but either straight up or maybe just a few degrees outward (away from the board edge)
The sockets have a notch to indicate pin #1. Orient that to match the silkscreen notch.
S2 (the ADC socket) is recommended for most builds unless you plan to replace the ADC with your own hardware connected via SPI (see the Customization guide)
Make sure these are inserted from the correct board side. Unsoldering them is a bitch.
Vol pot P1 has a “keying” tab (unless it's already been removed) which, although is less than 1mm tall, will prevent the pot from sitting flush to inside face of the enclosure when mounted. It's important for it to sit flush. You can either file the tab down, or break it off with needle nose pliers. Because filing makes a mess, I prefer to break it off.
The last part is often the trickiest. The encoder Enc has very short pins, but for it to sit tight against the enclosure face, it (plus the included nylon washer) needs to sit at roughly the same level as the Vol pot. It should rest on its side tabs at the appropriate level, however, it can rock and end up not perpendicular to the board. So…
The pins of the IC's usually need to be bent inward just a millimeter or two before inserting. Lightly squeeze all pins between thumb and first finger.
All IC's are polarized. Make sure the notch/dimple (indicating pin #1) ends up on the same end as the silkscreen (and sockets if you installed them right). Worse case, match the photos below.
Depending on how you plan to enclose the pi-Stomp, you need to decide whether to Top-mount the LCD and install a header (HLCD) for it, OR Under-mount the LCD and solder it directly to the board. Under-mount will generally be the most professional looking. See Enclosure Considerations for examples.
Top-Mount instructions using a header
All others, and especially if you purchased an enclosure from Treefallsound, should use Under-mount shown below
A header for easy removal of the LCD (as used in Top-mounting) isn't possible for under-mounting. It would result in a height inconsistent with the encoder and volume control. So for this method, you'll be soldering the LCD directly to the board.
Three spacers HW23 - HW25 (5.5mm tall) can be glued between the pi-Stomp board and the LCD to keep it parallel and at the right height - just below the enclosure face when the volume pot and encoder are mounted.
You'll want to place the spacers so they're flush against the boards, between solder pads. Could require a bit of test fitting, but if you place them as shown, it should work fine.
A light layer of hot glue affixes the spacers and breaks fairly easy if you get it wrong.
Because the LCD, once soldered, will obscure the audio input header, you'll need to connect W2 (4“ 3-wire jumper which will eventually connect to the Audio board) before attaching the LCD, Each pin is labeled on the board with “L” for left, “G” for ground, and “R” for Right. Once you connect the jumper, make note of which color connected to each pin. In the build shown: L=Yellow, G=Green, R=Blue.
A spot of hot glue can keep the jumper from separating from the header
Now insert the 9 LCD pins, securing the LCD with a bit a glue on at least 1 spacer. If you glue all 3, you'll have to work fast before the glue dries.
Flip everything, and solder from the other side
The pi-Stomp board is now complete.
The kit comes with 4 sets of standoffs (spacers) and screws. Each are a different height so it's important to use the correct ones.
To either side of the 40-pin header, we'll add a 12mm spacer plus 1mm washer for a total height of 13mm
Insert a screw from the “top” side, then from the “bottom” add a 1mm washer, then the 12mm spacer, then tighten.
Attach two silver 11mm metal spacers using two screws to the Audio Board
They should attach to the “bottom” side on the edge opposite of the 40-pin header
Attach two 8mm nylon spacers, plus 1mm thick washers (9mm height total) using two screws to the Hat Hacker
They should protrude from the “bottom” side. Insert the screw from the “top” side, through the elongated hole (end nearest the 40-pin header) as shown, then add the washer and finally the 8mm spacer.
Attach heatsink to Broadcom chip on the “top” side. Peal just the blue layer of the tape, then stick it on the chip and press firmly.
First, the Audio Card onto the Hat Hacker
Leave the sticker on the board. That along with some fingernail polish under the sticker are in place to prevent possible shorting to the volume pot on the pi-Stomp circuit board.
Seat the 40-pin header completely and attach with two screws
Next, the Hat Hacker onto the back of the pi-Stomp board
Seat the 40-pin header and attach with two screws (note that there will be a slight ~1mm gap between the headers)
Flip the board and attach the audio jumpers. The input pins shown in green should match the “L” “G” and “R” wire colors you noted when connecting the other end. The output pins shown in pink should match the “L” and “R” on the pi-Stomp board. Note there is no ground for the output connection.
Next, the Raspberry Pi board will be attached to the Hat Hacker
Seat the 40-pin header and attach with two screws
Your pi-Stomp Core is now complete!
Other views of the final stack:
For installing into an enclosure see this example: Example build into a 1590J enclosure